Tuesday, July 15, 2014

The Year I Turned 21


In the Spring of the year I turned 21, I drove a motor scooter from Santa Barbara, California to Montreal by way of Brooklyn.   I would have driven directly to Montreal, but I had to stop along the way in Brooklyn to assure my parents that I really had survived. 

My scooter was a Lambretta, made in Italy, with a 150 cc engine.  Gas cost around .30 a gallon and a gallon got me a hundred miles, sometimes more if I caught a tail wind. The trip took me about 6 weeks: I was in no hurry.  I camped out most nights. I was sort of “sponsored” by a motor scooter magazine. The magazine is long-gone and probably forgotten by anyone who wasn't involved with it.  I don't think they paid me much , but I did get some scooter stuff from them. The magazine also published my route as best as I could predict it and we kept in touch by mail - addressed to 'General Delivery' - at towns along the way.  

On one of my first days out, I stopped at a local winery and bought a 'fare well' bottle of California wine. It was early morning and the owner took me for a walk through the vineyards so I could also taste the grapes he'd used for that bottle.  I nursed that single bottle through my first week on the road.  Of course, I remember it as the best wine ever.

 My scooter was a kind of interesting site. It had a homemade carriers front for my sleeping bag and tent.  The rest of my gear was packed into back some Navy surplus waterproof bags tied to the rear carrier.  The farther I traveled, the more stuff got tied on: a jar of peanut butter, maybe a sack of fruit, some laundry drying in the 'breeze' and like that. It made for conversations wherever I stopped and every once in a while, an invitation to dinner and a real bed for a night. Times were simpler.

I discovered that truck stops had showers that I could sometimes use. and I breakfasted nearly every morning on truck stop coffee and hot, fresh donuts. I rolled my own cigarettes and I cooked most of my other meals on a little stove made in Norway by a company called Sigg.  I remember that name because  I still have that stove. 

I traveled the full length of Route 66 from Santa Monica to Chicago and the old Lincoln Highway through heartland Appalachia. For a couple of days, I camped at the edge of the Grand Canyon. You could do that then. I stayed in a motel in Tucumcari run by a Mexican family and painted signs in exchange for my room and huge Mexican meals served up in their restaurant.  I think I got the better of the deal.  Years later when I passed through Tucumcari again, the motel had new owners but my signs were still there.  

The scooter is long gone, but I still have the leather jacket I wore for all those days all those years ago.  In one pocket there are 2 letters addressed  General Delivery.

That was a fine trip.  In may ways, it may have been the best trip of all the trips I would ever take.   Fortunately, I didn't know that at the time.

1 comment:

Carol Rainey said...

That sounds like a very good year, indeed. You old hippie. Have you read Patti Smith's Just Kids? A memoir of her early 20s in the Village with Robert Mapplethorpe. A similar feel to your story. Maybe you have a memoir in you?